October in the Madonie: from must to mostarda

October is the quietest and, at the same time, the most fragrant month of the year in the Madonie. With the last grapes harvested, the local vineyards turn yellow and red, while the sweet scent of must drifts from the wineries of the area. After telling you about the flavour of the high-altitude grapes of Petralia Sottana, this time we take you into the weeks after the harvest, when Sicilian farming tradition turns must into something to keep for the winter.

The time of the must
After picking, the vine slowly prepares for its winter rest, while in the cellar the must ferments and the air fills with a fruity, pungent aroma. In the past all this happened in the palmenti, the ancient stone buildings where grapes were pressed. In contrada Sant'Elia we look after one dating back at least to the 17th century: discover its story on the page dedicated to our ancient Palmento.

The ancient ritual: how Sicilian "Mustata" is made
In Sicilian country homes, part of the must never became wine: it became mustata, Sicilian mostarda, a firm autumn pudding. In Madonie kitchens it is still made following the rules of the past, handed down from generation to generation:
1. Reducing the must: fresh grape must is boiled to reduce it and concentrate its natural sugars.
2. The use of ash: to remove the grapes' typical acidity, local tradition adds a spoonful of clean ash, usually from olive or vine prunings. The liquid is left to rest and then carefully strained through a cloth.
3. Thickening: re-milled semolina (or starch) is stirred into the clear, cold must. It goes back on the heat, stirred constantly until it becomes a thick, velvety cream, scented with cinnamon, cloves and orange zest.
4. The terracotta moulds: the hot mixture is poured into wet terracotta moulds. Once cool, the mostarda is turned out, left to dry in the sun for a few days and finally topped with toasted, chopped almonds.

The Masseria's tip
Serve mostarda at the end of a meal with a well-chilled glass of Cordella Bianco Metodo Charmat: its bubbles cleanse the palate. For an evening by the fire with aged Madonie cheeses, open a bottle of Lilium Petrae Rosso Terre Siciliane IGP. More ideas in Autumn in the Madonie.

If you're passing through Petralia Sottana, stop for a meal at Il Castello restaurant, where the cooking follows the rhythm of the seasons.

Our wines are waiting for you in the Masseria Sant'Elia online shop: bring the taste of a Sicilian October to your table.